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The Man in the Tiny Suit

What you’re looking at is a radical experiment. Not the design of the snug Thom Browne suit, but its effect on a man plucked from ordinary life and forced to wear it. I am that man.

By David Katz, 27 Sep 2007, Esquire

I’ve never been particularly proud of my ankles. I’ve never been much ashamed of them, either. Honestly, until a few days ago, I never gave my ankles much thought at all. Now I can’t stop thinking about them. And it doesn’t help that three young women recently paused in front of me on the street in Venice, California, noticed the three-inch gap between my shoes and my pant cuffs, and burst out laughing.

Obviously they don’t understand fashion.

Of course, until last week, I wasn’t so fashion-forward myself. I wasn’t a total slob. I knew to match my socks to my pants, to avoid square-toed shoes, to never, ever wear one of those tuxedo-print T-shirts. In the course of my life, a few women had even complimented me on my fashion sense, though I always suspected that what they meant was that I dressed in a way that didn’t embarrass them. Avoiding embarrassment – that was perhaps my guiding sartorial principle. But that was because I didn’t really understand fashion.

Thom Browne was going to change that. Thom Browne is one of the most influential men’s clothing designers. His suits start out at about $4,000 (although he will be launching a more conventional and affordable line through Brooks Brothers this fall), and what you’re not paying for is a whole lot of fabric. Because Thom Browne’s suits are small. Like real small. Like take-your-prom-suit-and-throw-it-in-the-dryer-on-high-for-a-couple-hours small. You might even be tempted to say that his suits are so small, they don’t actually fit. But you would be tempted to say this only if, like me, you didn’t understand fashion.

A few weeks ago, I met Browne at his Tribeca store, where he fit me with a few of his suits. The idea was to see what happens when an average dresser of average proportions suddenly inhabits a fashion-forward getup. How would I feel? How would my life change? How would I avoid having my ass handed to me on the subway?

Browne greeted me in the store’s back room wearing one of his own snug jackets, a long skinny black tie, and dress shorts cut just above the knee. I thought it was kind of a miracle that he didn’t l ook absurd, but he managed to pull the look off. Still, Thom Browne is a tiny guy – maybe five six and very thin – and he is sometimes criticized for making clothes that look good only on him. As Browne instructed his assistant on which samples to pull, I wondered aloud if his suits were really going to work on a guy my size: six feet, 185 pounds. In the course of his answer, he walked me through the history of his designs.

Browne, who until 2001 worked as fashion director of Ralph Lauren’s Club Monaco line, had always been a devotee of 1950s and ‘60s tailoring. When he debuted his own collection in 2003, the concept behind his now-famous suit was to bring those conventions – the narrow jacket, the hand stitching, the fitted pants – to a generation rapidly abandoning the suit altogether. He wanted to save the suit from itself, and to do this, he knew he had to make it look radical. So he shrunk it. The Thom Browne suit is actually based on you r father’s old Brooks Brothers, but unless your father is Frodo Baggins, there’s no confusing the two.

Browne assured me his suits could be tailored to any size (within reason), as long as the proportions were maintained. And I was somewhat encouraged by the fact that there was another guy of average size in the store trying on a seersucker number, though I was less encouraged by the fact that he kind of looked like an ass. I sucked in my gut and tried on jackets, and I somehow managed to squeeze into the second one. Still, I felt like Chris Farley in David Spade’s blazer, and it seemed as if the thing was one quick exhale from becoming a $4,000 rag. I emerged from behind the dressing panel expecting a chuckle and a new, roomier blazer. Instead I got, “Oh, that one’s perfect. Now let’s do the pants.” Browne’s assistant pinned the legs where he wanted to hem them. But Browne corrected him: “If he’s gonna do this, we migh t as well go for it,” he said, as he rolled up my trousers another two inches.

Meanwhile, Browne carefully outlined the proper way to wear his suit: tie tucked in and clipped, button-down collar left unbuttoned, no belt, and no socks. The rules of nonconformity, it seemed, were more fascistic than I had imagined. “Of course, the most important thing is that you’re comfortable,” he said, unbuttoning my jacket and allowing me to exhale for the first time in fifteen minutes.

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No Room for Mistakes

Design perfectionists at home

By Penelope Green, NYTimes, 25 January 2012

Todd Waterbury’s apartment is just perfect.

No, really. It’s not simply that his book collection is restricted to titles with black, gray or white bindings, and stacked, jacketless, in neat horizontal rows (and mostly reflects the work of artists who are themselves interested in stacking, grid-making, mapmaking or otherwise marking time and space in obsessive and orderly ways). Or that nearly every item here (the sofa, the chairs, Mr. Waterbury’s suits) is also either black, gray or white, including the paint on the walls (gray with white trim) and most of the artwork, like a painting by Peter Wegner, Mr. Waterbury’s best friend, of a simple font chart from the 1940s showing black type on a white background.

Actually, there’s an even deeper level of “perfect” at work in this large one-bedroom apartment near Central Park South. It’s an underlying order that compels Mr. Waterbury to arrange his dining chairs not around his dining table like the rest of us, but in neat stacks on either side of Mr. Wegner’s font painting, to match its stack of words.

“And if you stand right here — — ” said Mr. Waterbury as he directed a visitor to what he called the sweet spot of his apartment, a vantage point that took in the stacked books, the stacked type painting and th e stacked chairs, as well as the plywood edge of another Wegner painting (or really two paintings, one hung above the other).

“If you stand here,” Mr. Waterbury continued eagerly, “you can see the wood edge of the paintings, and relate it to the wood of the dining chairs. I really like that.”

By now, it is clear that Mr. Waterbury — a creative director and brand consultant who spent 16 years at Wieden + Kennedy, the ad agency, before going out on his own two years ago — answers to an aesthetic dog whistle, as he put it, that few can hear. He is a design perfectionist, a curious breed that outfits its habitat not according to style or fashion, but to a set of fastidious inner rules that are usually minimalist in nature, but not always.

Some are so fastidious they have no furniture at all, being allergic to the “visual clutter of objects” in particular, as Klaus Biesenbach, director of PS1, the Museum of Modern Art altern ative outpost in Long Island City, Queens, likes to say — and to design in general.

“I hate design,” Mr. Biesenbach will tell you emphatically. When he travels, he has a habit of stripping his hotel room of anything that moves (furniture, colored pillows, desktop accessories) and stuffing it all into the closet. “It’s a little bit of curatorial disease,” he said. “I like to reduce everything to its original surface.”

For the last five years, Mr. Biesenbach has been living in a nearly empty apartment in Seward Park, the former union co-op complex on the Lower East Side. Until recently, the place contained not much more than a mattress and a television. After W magazine published an article on it three years ago, Mr. Biesenbach suffered from the blandishments of friends, who kept trying to buy him furniture. And when CBS profiled him for its morning news program soon after, a reporter arrived with a bouquet of flowers, hoping t o irritate Mr. Biesenbach with the gesture. He did.

Then last summer, Mr. Biesenbach, who was traveling a lot for work, lent his apartment to an artist friend whose studio roof had collapsed during July’s heavy rains. When Mr. Biesenbach returned, his home had been altered. The artist had brought in his own sofa, dining table and chairs, and painted the entire apartment — the walls, that sofa, even the DVD player and the cable box — in white house paint.

“He tricked me, and I should have been angry, but I was completely charmed,” Mr. Biesenbach said. “He thought I needed to loosen up a bit.”

True, the DVD player, the microwave oven and the espresso machine no longer functioned, but that didn’t bother Mr. Biesenbach. It was the sofa that grated on him. The other day, he skirted it warily, like a cat introduced to a large, slobbering golden retriever.

“I nearly feel fine, I can almost imagine buying a sofa for myself,” he said. “It’s white, so you don’t really see it, like an ice bear in a snow landscape.

“Also, it has a story. It is more performance than object. And the story allows you to throw it out because you are not throwing out an object but ending a story. One day, I will call and have it trashed, and then maybe I will get my own couch.” (Performance, of course, is Mr. Biesenbach’s bailiwick. He organized Marina Abramovic’s MoMA epic, “The Artist Is Present,” two years ago; Thursday’s performance at Radio City by Antony Hegarty, the pansexual crooner and art world darling, is his doing as well.)

Mr. Biesenbach has not gotten around to actually sitting on this particular story, though he said he occasionally perches on one of the dining chairs.

Ab Rogers in collaboration with Rei Kawakubo, Adrian Joffe, Shona Kitchen and Takao Kawasaki,

Comme Des Garcons Paris

Is Chanel Designer Karl Lagerfeld Spread Too Thin?

by Robin Givhan, The Daily Beast, 30 Jan 2012.
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Karl Lagerfeld is over rated.

Such a statement rings like heresy within a fashion universe where the highly acclaimed designer struts upon his lofty stage as the creative director of Chanel—but it’s true.

This pronouncement is not meant to imply that the German-born Lagerfeld isn’t supremely talented and culturally influential. Through his work at Chanel, it’s clear he is all those things. But fashion aficionados idolize Lagerfeld not merely for the great skill with which he has maintained the Chanel image. He has been feted for the quantity of his catholic pursuits—though not necessarily the quality of them. At one time he divided his services among three brands: Chanel, Chloé, and Fendi, where he continues to work. He has launched half a dozen versions of an eponymous collection—each to great anticipation—and even though m ost have been disappointing, he persists. On Jan. 25, he debuted the latest iteration, “KARL by Karl Lagerfeld,” on Net-a-Porter.com.

He has been celebrated as a voracious photographer and applauded for accumulating a teetering stack of iPods. He has published books and collaborated on books, thus being deemed, if not an intellectual, at least a man of letters. He has developed a magnetic and highly memorable personal style that blends Madame de Pompadour hair with a Mick Jagger strut. He has been flat out called “a genius,” a “Renaissance man,” and “the Kaiser.”

To be fair, the fashion industry tends to go weak and breathless at the slightest provocation. Perhaps Tom Ford comes closest to equaling Lagerfeld for the excitement his mere presence stirs. Ford has caused ebullient madness during department-store promotio ns for his cosmetics line. He, too, has shown a willingness to try his hand in other fields, like a Michael Jordan wanting to indulge a dream to play baseball. And unlike the basketball legend’s mortifying stint in the dugout, Ford showed his skills quite nicely with A Single Man, his first outing as a director. With Ford, however, there always seems to be someone ready to suggest that he isn’t so much a great designer as a brilliant marketer and stylist—someone for whom the sum of his work is greater than the individual parts. Whether or not that is true is moot. The point is that Ford’s work is critically considered. His success during his years at Gucci did not lead to assumptions about his brilliance elsewhere.

Meanwhile, a designer such as Miuccia Prada, the subject of an upcoming exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, has wide-ranging interests, from architecture to film, but her fans relate to her like grad students hovering around a particularly favored professor.

Lagerfeld, then, is a peculiarity within a peculiar industry. Indiscriminate praise drips off him in thick, opaque globs. Performing a kind of fashion sludge test just might provide insight into the workings of a tightly wound business fueled by money, personality, artistry, and sleight of hand.

Lagerfeld has been at Chanel since 1983, arriving more than a decade after its founder’s death, at a time when the brand had faded into a dusty purveyor of perfume. Lagerfeld resurrected the house to such a degree that now the upcoming Academy Award red carpet will not be complete without a starlet or two wafting along its camera-lined expanse in a custom Chanel confection of tulle and embroidery. And he has won the affections of fashion’s greatest power broker, Vogue editor Anna Wintour. She regularly turns to Chanel for her business wardrobe, but more than that, her signature sunglasses are Chanel and she wore a white haute-couture Chanel suit when she attended the state dinner for China at the White House in 2011.

For every classic Chanel handbag or fanciful riff on the little black dress inciting lust in the hearts of style-savvy women, there have been equally mortifying examples of pandering and buffoonery: a tweed jacket transformed into a circus costume, menswear that would make a drag queen flinch, handbags that reek of self-conscious status climbing.

But without risk, there is little reward. Lagerfeld took vocabulary established by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel—the nubby bouclé jackets, easy cardigans, multiple strands of pearls, camellias—and used it to speak in a brasher, more contemporary m anner. Lagerfeld expanded Mademoiselle’s philosophy of good taste and comfort to connect the brand to everything from urbane hip-hop to glorious haute couture, from ignoble logos to brash consumerism. He did all of this to great financial and critical success.

What Lagerfeld did not do is add to the vocabulary itself. If a great designer is judged by a silhouette he has popularized, a sensibility he has nurtured, or an aesthetic that is unmistakably his own, then Lagerfeld has failed.

He has spent a lifetime designing for Fendi—ever since its days as a family-owned, Italian furrier. He was hired to exploit the diversity of fur, and he did that by dyeing it, painting it, shaving and otherwise contorting it. But if there is a singular item for which Fendi has been known for more than a decade, it is the baguette handbag, which can still be found selling for f our figures on eBay. But Lagerfeld did not design it. Silvia Venturini Fendi did.

Alber Elbaz at Lanvin created a unique fusion of power and sensuality that can be summed up with a single image of a provocatively draped jersey or satin dress. Giorgio Armani transformed power dressing. And Gianni Versace was known for carving out a distinctive path between sex appeal and vulgarity. But Lagerfeld has simply broadened a road built by Chanel herself. He has been, says Amy Shea, “a fabulous steward” of the Chanel identity.

all Undercover

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